How to Crochet in the Round (Magic Ring, Chain Method & Common Mistakes)

Working in the round is what separates flat rectangles from hats, baskets, amigurumi, doilies and the top of every granny square. It's not harder than working in rows — it just uses two techniques beginners rarely encounter first: how to start a circle, and how to keep it flat.

This guide covers both starting methods, the flat-circle math that makes your circle actually lie flat, and the three mistakes that cause almost every 'my circle looks wrong' question we get.

Method 1: The magic ring (magic circle)

The magic ring gives you a completely closed center with no visible hole. Every amigurumi pattern assumes you know how to make one.

1. Drape the yarn over your palm and cross the tail behind the working yarn to make a loop.
2. Insert your hook into the loop, yarn over, and pull up a loop.
3. Chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch).
4. Work your starting stitches into the ring — usually 6 sc for amigurumi, or 12 dc for a flat circle.
5. Pull the tail firmly to cinch the ring closed.
6. Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch (unless working in a continuous spiral).

Method 2: The chain method

Simpler to learn, but leaves a small hole in the center. Great for coasters, doilies and anything where a visible hole is fine (or even decorative).

1. Chain 4 (for a small circle) or chain 6 (for a larger one).
2. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.
3. Chain 1 (or the height of your starting stitch), then work your starting stitches into the ring — not into individual chains.
4. Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch to close the round.

The flat-circle formula

A flat circle stays flat only if you add the same number of increases to every round. The number depends on the stitch height:

• Single crochet: start with 6, increase by 6 each round (6, 12, 18, 24, 30…).
• Half double crochet: start with 8, increase by 8 each round.
• Double crochet: start with 12, increase by 12 each round.
• Treble crochet: start with 16, increase by 16 each round.

Distribute the increases evenly. In round 2, work an increase in every stitch. In round 3, alternate 'increase, 1 stitch.' In round 4, 'increase, 2 stitches.' And so on — the plain stitches between increases grow by one each round.

Spiral vs. joined rounds

Amigurumi is almost always worked in a continuous spiral — you never join, you just keep going. This eliminates the visible seam that ruins the illusion of a smooth sphere.

Hats, doilies, baskets and blankets made in the round usually join with a slip stitch at the end of each round. The join creates a small vertical seam — hide it at the back of a hat, or offset it with a chain-1 turning at the start of each round for a cleaner look.

How to fix the spiral 'jog'

When you join rounds with a slip stitch, the color change on stripes creates a visible step (the 'jog'). Two fixes: work an invisible join at the end of the previous color, or offset the first stitch of the new color by slip-stitching into it before starting. Both take one round of practice.